The English Duffle Coat with Wooden Toggles

The duffle coat is robust and timeless and although it’s over 100 years old, it is still and will always be in style. Going back to the source of this durable design means looking into its military history:

Originally, the duffle coat was designed for the Admirals of the British Royal Navy and later on for the entire Navy, to be worn on the decks of Her Majesty’s ships. At the end of the 19th century, the British Navy searched for the best protective garment against the cold when sailing around Antarctica and adopted the ancestor of the duffle-coat, and continued improving it, even using whale teeth for toggles.

The “Duffel” is a rough thick woolen cloth which gave its name to the duffle-coat. It was Marshall Montgomery (Monty) who first came upon this cloth which was originally produced in a small town called Duffel, near Antwerp in Belgium. Attracted by its waterproof and wind proof qualities, he brought it back to England where it was used to make the coats (called “Monty Coats”) for the whole Navy.

Everything in this coat is designed to withstand the worst weather conditions, as well as the hardest physical challenges; The (semi) double breasted design with asymmetrical closure allows sailors to climb up the rigging and the toggles allow easy opening without removing the thick gloves worn on deck. With shoulder lining and twin patch pockets, a hood and warm tartan lining covering the inside seams, the duffle coat is sturdy and ready to face the cold. It is the first military garment in the world to be worn with the same design, from the humble sailor to the top rank Admiral.

Its success within the Royal Navy spread to army officers and other military corps: the “Royal Flying Corps”, the “Raiders” (first behind enemy lines in WW2), the “Long Range Desert Corps” (which would later become the SAS) who would use it across the deserts of North Africa.

Montgomery is the last heir of the authentic duffle coat, respecting the original patterns and using the identical fabric of its beginnings, though in a lighter version because the original coat was twice as heavy.  

Gloverall, another duffle coat manufacturer started making them after the war in the mid-50s as the originals made by Montgomery found their way into army surplus depots throughout England. Thus, the supply of duffle coats suddenly grew and their cheap price made them widely popular amongst the young generation who launched the new military trend. The duffle coat would then be reinterpreted by companies who had no affiliation to the Royal Navy but purely for the love of this model. Huge success.

It appeared in war movies and it was worn by children and their mothers as well as anti-establishment youth in the 50’s and 60’s. Wanting to make a statement against war, they seized the duffle coat and transformed it into a symbol of “Peace and Love” worn with desert boots on shiny scooters, at rock concerts and festival venues, or in new-wave films - and even in a bright red version for girls. From this time, the duffle coat has retained an image of “intello-chic”, very Paris “Rive Gauche”.

From Cocteau and Laurent Terzieff in “Les Tricheurs” to Gaston Lagaffe, a Belgian comic strip hero, the duffle coat has its aficionados everywhere.

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Ever since, designers have been inspired by it, sadly often by neglecting the original features which are its strength. It becomes more fitted although originally, it was supposed to be worn over a uniform and the pockets are smaller, although they were designed to be able to store a sailor’s cap… Until there is nothing left of the original apart from the distinctive toggles.

At deTOUJOURS, you will find all the wonderful original features that made it such a timeless piece from the source of style, from Montgomery, the duffle coat’s legitimate manufacturer.